All of these valves have a min/max on the rough-in. If it is installed with the finished wall between min/max or the rough-in plaster guard device, the trim will fit BUT, if you are at one end or the other, you MAY NOT LIKE IT! So, temporarily, put it together with the trim to see how much of the shaft/handle you want sticking out, then measure, and mount the valve there. There are LOTS of people here that have posted complaining about how it looks (not how it functions) because they didn't mock it up first. To the manufactuer, if it fits, it's right. Synthmaster Kv331 Keygen. To the consumer, they usually, don't like it at either extreme. The engineer's version of min/max may not meet the fashion design sense of the user.

CHECK IT FIRST! I'm installing the R10000, and after mocking it up, the handle sticks out too far, so we would need to install it about a 1/4' -3/8' deeper into the wall. However now the problem is that using a 2x4 as the stringer, the stringer won't be flush between the studs, it would also need to be pushed further back. Is there any problem using a thinner hardwood as the stringer, allowing it to remain flush with the studs. I was thinking something like 1x3 oak, which is still rigid/hard enough to mount the valve too. Stephen King It Ebook Ita.

The min/max on the instructions just guarantees that any of the compatible trim will fit, not how well it looks. As long as you can get enough of the trim screws into the body and hold things on properly, and can get your hand on the handle without pinching or things rubbing, it will work. Someone with arthritis might like it further from the wall since it may be easier to grab and turn. Another thing with that rough-in valve.since it is used with lots of their trim, if it isn't within their min/max, should you decide to change the trim later on, it may not fit if you wanted a different finish or style later on.you'd have to move the valve, which could be problematic. You are exactly where I am. I have Moen valve and it looks like using a 2 x 4 would put the valve a good 1/4 - 1/2 beyond my finished surface. Looking at your pictures, are you showing the tile and CBU on top of a table?

If so, how are you getting the valve to show the measurement differences? It looks like you have an extension on the handle in the one picture. Reading your text above the pictures it would seem you are suggesting you have the valve on a 2 x4 and the other picture showing it on a 1 x 4.

Getting this right is key it seems to be able to figure out when to mount my shower head line and tub valve. Click to expand.Thank you.

That is what I am trying to do actually by asking about those pictures. I am assuming that is what loudgonzo did there.

I don't see on the plaster guard any min or max markings. Tina Crack Download here. Just the words Optional on one side and Standard on the side facing up. The plaster guard has two notches cut out top and bottom. I've taken my tile sample, a piece of drywall I had, and laid it against my studs. Placed the valve and plaster guard flush with it and then placed a 2 x 4 directly behind it.

The 2 x 4 looks to be a good 1/4 too far in. {I figured the drywall though a bit thicker than Hardie Backer board, would end up being the same thickness in the end due to the thinset. I guess I should take the plaster guard off, put the cover plate and handle on, and then align it to the same as I described above? Is that the best way to mock it up?